Introduction

When your body screams ‘no more!’ wend your way west along scenic Highway 70 to Berkeley Springs, the West Virginia town whose raison d’être is its warm-water mineral springs. Stressed-out city slickers flock here in droves as they have for generations: Berkeley Springs is America’s first spa town and dates back to the days of George Washington, who stumbled upon the town during a scouting mission.

The multitude of local spas all employ the healing waters in their treatments, which range from ‘raindrop therapies’ to detoxifying body wraps that will leave you feeling blissed-out and worry-free. But there’s more than just water. Art is a big deal in Berkeley Springs, and many of the town’s restaurants and shops double as galleries carrying everything from pottery and paper, to leather crafts and stained glass. It only takes an afternoon to walk the town’s two main streets, but don’t rush home. A couple of days here, and you’ll feel a million miles from the big city.

See & Do in Berkeley Springs

The town centers around Berkeley Springs State Park, a grassy area no bigger than half a football field, with a New England-style gazebo at its center. The grounds get mobbed during festivals and summertime concerts. I like the outdoor public swimming pool ($3.50 per person), which is fed directly from the hot springs.

The park’s yellow-brick building houses the public baths (aka the Roman baths), where you can get a no-frills soak and massage, so long as you don’t mind getting rubbed down with mineral oil and 190-proof ethyl alcohol. Don’t get any high-minded ideas about the beauty of these Roman baths. They remind me of a haunted sanatorium, with echoey tiled cells and steps leading down to a rectangular hole filled with 102-degree mineral water from the spring. Still, the baths are inexpensive and give a budget-friendly taste of the town’s waters. Note: opposite sex couples and groups are not permitted. There’s also a tiny, free museum on the second floor with exhibits on the town’s early history.

Who needs Evian? Look for the public hand pump next to the public baths, where you can fill your water bottle with the slightly tangy mineral water for free. Locals wheel gallon jugs and massive water containers to the pump to take the celebrated waters at home.

Nobody knows for certain if George actually stripped naked and dunked himself in the tiny, rectangular stone-lined hole in the state park, but the town believes it is the site of George Washington’s bathtub—they even spend an entire weekend celebrating this quirky factoid during George Washington’s Bathtub Celebration.

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Many people believe there is a special energy in Berkeley Springs, which has drawn a huge number of holistic healers, alternative health therapists, and spiritual shamans. Contact the chamber of commerce for a list of healers—if you’re into past-life regression and tarot card readings.

The Bath House is my hands-down favorite spa. Try to book Michael Pushkin, a master masseur and bodyworker. On my last visit, I had a pounding migraine, and by merely moving his hands above my head, he swept the pain right out of my brain. Spooky. But I’m a convert! Try the spa’s refreshing Balinese body polish or the yummy chocolate-covered-strawberry body wrap that may leave you wanting to lick yourself afterward. Step into the adjacent shop for soothing lavender and calendula lotions, potent aromatherapy oils, and fizzy bath bombs, among other delicious-scented gifts.

Don’t even think of leaving town without experiencing a rubdown at Atasia Spa. Owner Frankie Tan studied massage at the Wat Po Buddhist Temple in Bangkok, and you’ll become soft as putty under his strong hands. His Asian-inspired spa has a lush central garden—the setting for manis and pedis—and warm treatment rooms with furnishing custom-designed for the spa. The herbal wraps, mud treatments, and raindrop therapies are good, but for a special treat, hit the Hawaiian room for a two-therapist Lomi Lomi healing massage. Aloha! Note: all bookings must be made by phone; no walk-ins accepted.

Five Senses Spa is tucked into the side of a mountain at the back end of the imposing The Country Inn at Berkeley Springs (see lodging review, below). It’s not my favorite spa because its rooms feel more clinical than inviting, but its has a wall of windows that provide an unobstructed view of the adjacent Berkeley Springs State Park. You’ll get this delicious vista while soaking in a double Jacuzzi tub before a body treatment. I’m particular to the peppermint sea twist wrap—the cool tingle lasts all day. Manis and pedis are done in a large open room, so choose somewhere else if you prefer more privacy.

Spend the extra 50 cents to upgrade your red leather seat to a comfy couch, and kick back for a first-run film at the historic Star Theater . Arrive early to browse the museum-like lobby, which is heavy on local nostalgia. The popcorn here kicks ass.

Amber glass bottles line the wooden shelves of Washington Homeopathic Products pharmacy, which is filled with potions and pills to cure what ails you. Skeptical? I was too, until I had to buy ‘throat drops’ for my husband, who got sick during our romantic weekend in town. Darned if they didn’t work. Get a chuckle from the remedies for excessive flatulence, nightly aggravations, worms, and even sadness.

Since this is an artistic community as much as a spa town, you’ll find myriad galleries and boutiques carrying the work of local artisans, particularly jewelry, metalwork, and sculpture. Look for the kitty in the Mountain Laurel Gallery; she usually hides in one of the handcrafted wooden bowls. I like this place for its eclectic collection of glass and metal pieces—I bought a springy metal frog that entertained my own cat for days.

The Berkeley Springs Antique Mall is a huge warehouse of hodgepodge items ranging from old record albums and posters, to Royal Doulton dish sets, to coins and slogan buttons from long-since-forgotten presidential campaigns. It’s paradise for patient bargain hunters with patience (I found a complete colored Pyrex bowl set), but could prove overwhelming for shoppers on a mission.

Pick up a spiritual singing bowl at Himalayan Handicrafts. It isn’t your average tourist junk shop: every item has been brought back from Nepal. Retrodini pays homage to a time when rockabilly was hot and the pompadour was high style. The store is expanding again in August, and will increase their stock of wild, vintage clothing and retro luggage, furniture, and swanky pop-culture tchotchkes.

Berkeley Springs Restaurants

From April to October, sample home-grown, West Virginia goodies at the Sunday morning farmers market. Jams, fresh produce and herbs, local meats and a variety of house and dried plants are on offer. Kids can enter contests for prizes of candy.

Go casual at Tari’s ($-$$), a friendly tavern dishing up monster burgers and healthful salads. The spicy sausage jambalaya comes with homemade cornbread, and the creamy buttermilk slaw goes with just about anything on the menu. Decorated in whimsical family heirlooms and the namesake owner’s personal collection of stringed instruments, the restaurant also doubles as a local art gallery with pieces from more than 30 artists.

The top table in town, Lot 12 Public House ($$$) occupies a gorgeous 1913 house, with a wraparound porch overlooking the state park. The contemporary menu lists hearty classics like roasted duck and coq au vin, and specialties like grilled venison sausage. Save room for the scrumptious desserts. Ladies, if you walk here from town, leave the high heels home. The hill is s-t-e-e-p. Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, and the entire month of January.

The potent java at Fairfax Coffee House kicks you into high gear. There’s also a small lunch menu of paninis, soups, and sandwiches. The cafe doubles as a gift shop loaded with hand-painted mugs and teapots.

With a name like Panorama at the Peak, you know the view has got to be great—National Geographic Traveler even featured it as one of the best in the country. Breaking the old axiom that you have to trade food quality for vistas, the kitchen uses top-notch local ingredients, and makes a mean slow-roasted prime rib. Other standouts include the spicy butternut squash and cider soup, and the steaming-hot pot pies. Vegetarians and vegans are also well respected here. At the wildly popular Sunday brunch (make reservations), portobello benedicts and pecan-studded amaretto French toast draw rave reviews.

I haven’t yet had a chance to check out La Luna Gallery and Wine Bar, but I hear it’s ideal for a glass of vino after a summer evening concert in the park.

Berkeley Springs Hotels and Inns

The Country Inn at Berkeley Springs ($$-$$$) is the grande dame of lodging, with plantation-like white columns and a rocking-chair front porch. It’s got the best location in town, adjacent to the state park, and mere steps from shopping and restaurants. There are 62 rooms and five suites divided between the main house and the motel-like West Wing in the back. I prefer the large rooms in the main house, overlooking the mazelike gardens. Guests get first dibs on spa appointments at the onsite Five Senses Spa (see review, above). The jury is out on the restaurant: new owners promise to improve the once-lackluster cooking (see comments, below), but I’ve not tasted it yet. Give it a try and let us know.

Four Victorian homes comprise the Highlawn Inn ($$-$$$). Rooms are heavy on the lace (think Grandma’s house), but have floor-to-ceiling windows. The floral-print furnishings—lamps, curtains, and rugs—drip with fringe. Nine rooms are divided between two of the homes. All nine have private bathrooms, working fireplaces, and Jacuzzi tubs where you can draw your own mineral bath; only a few have old-school TVs (no remote!). Families and groups should consider booking either of the remaining two homes: the carriage house or the bathkeeper’s quarters, both of which have exposed ceiling beams, old-fashioned clawfoot tubs, and stained-glass windows. Innkeeper Sandra Kauffman uses herbs from her garden for the exceptional breakfast omelets. If you can, plan to attend one of her silver-service dinners (monthly; $49 per person), when she breaks out the good china and silverware, accompanying an amazing spread of locally grown vegetables and meats, homemade breads, and wines from West Virginia’s Fisher Ridge winery.

Some restaurants and shops rent rooms upstairs from their business. The park-view suite ($-$$), is a three-bedroom apartment atop the Washington Homeopathy Products shop; it includes a full kitchen. Above the Bath House is another park-view suite ($$-$$$); this one is slightly smaller, with one bedroom, a full kitchen, high-speed internet access, and a great living-room view of the state park. Around the corner, Tari’s ($) rents four bare-bones-basic rooms; if you’re staying for two nights, take advantage of the super cheap $179, two-night, two-lunch, two-dinner special—for two. YouBawtWhat! throws free bike rentals in with their suites, which feel more a living room than a hotel room. Each sports slightly worn but cozy sofas, reading chairs, queen-sized beds, and a kitchen outfitted with basic utensils and pots and pans.

Into camping? Sycamore Landing ($) sits right on the Cacapon River, a short, twisty drive down Rt. 9 from Berkeley Springs. Cacapon Hideaway ($-$$) has primitive sites, in addition to not-so-primitive camping cabins and homes (with satellite TV!).

Berkeley Springs Vacation Homes

Consider renting a private vacation home or cabin for the weekend. Two of my favorites are Sunset Mountain Farm ($$), which has a large deck with views of your own private pond, and Gobbler’s Knob ($$$), which has an awesome stone fireplace. Both are a ten-minute drive from downtown Berkeley Springs.

Introduction

Colonial charm meets cosmopolitan flair in Annapolis—but make no mistake: this ain’t Williamsburg. Sure there are stunning period homes—tons of them—but you’ll also find chic restaurants and happening nighttime music venues so hip, they’ll be passé by morning. Docents in white stockings and powdered wigs stroll the red-brick streets, alongside women in power suits at State Circle, and families feeding ducks at City Dock. Maryland’s state capital is also the sailing capital of the world, and its harbor teems with sleek yachts, historic tall ships, and every other watercraft imaginable.

Cruise aboard a historic schooner or posh yacht, tour Revolutionary War-era homes, shop for cool gifts at myriad boutiques, and sample some of the Eastern Seaboard’s freshest seafood and sushi too. But you can’t do it all in one weekend. Better to hit the places you can, without over-scheduling your time, then return once the seasons change and transform the city’s tenor.

A note about geography: Annapolis juts into the Chesapeake Bay like a left-hand forefinger and thumb. The Naval Academy occupies the fingernail; State and Church circles form the knuckles; and West Street—nightlife central—takes up the rest of the finger. The thumb is the waterfront community of Eastport, a walkable neighborhood with happening cafes and the Annapolis Maritime Museum.

See & Do in Annapolis

Annapolis is best seen on foot: traffic is awful. The city is a quagmire of circles and short streets that abruptly dead end. Spare yourself frustration by parking in a garage or lot. (There’s one at the Visitors Center, and one at the Rams Head Tavern, at Clay and Washington streets, ideal if you’re in town for a concert.) If you insist on driving, you may miss the magical small details that make Annapolis worth visiting—a hidden alley, lush with black-eyed Susans, or an oxidized plaque detailing the historical import of where you happen to be standing.

The city is rife with Colonial history. A hotbed of political activity during the Revolutionary War, it was as happening then as New York City is today. The historic section encompasses City Dock, the State House, and Naval Academy. Start the day with a nutty Chesapeake Blend cup o’ joe at City Dock Coffee, then check out the slightly freaky bronze statues surrounding the Kunta Kinte memorial (from Alex Haley’s novel, Roots) at City Dock’s water’s edge. Ogle the sleek, 100ft luxury yachts lazing in the water—they don’t call this inlet ‘Ego Alley’ for nothing. When it’s sunny outside, you’re guaranteed a glimpse of how the other half lives—the beautifully tanned, moneyed, and privileged laze on the decks of their yachts, looking like Paris Hilton in Cannes Don’t believe me? Check out this web cam for a view of the show.

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Restaurants, shops, and antique stores a-go-go surround Market Square and line Main Street, the latter a mainstream shopping corridor of chain clothing stores and touristy trinket shops. Check out the wild, contemporary sterling-silver bracelets at Blanca Flor. If you love wine, don’t miss Mills Wine, which carries hard-to-find varietals like rubaiyat. And there’s even free valet parking on weekends.

I’m normally hesitant to hype organized tours, since I prefer to make my own on-the-ground discoveries, but Annapolis has some great ones. See the city the way you ought to—by boat, aboard the historic Schooner Woodwind for two-hour sails during which you’ll get a chance to work the rigs, if you want to. Get schooled in early-American history on a walking tour with Capital City Colonials. If you’re addicted to tabloids and scandals, take their ‘Colonial Gossip’ tour. Or hop aboard a horse-drawn carriage with Annapolis Carriage for 20- to 50-minute journeys through cobblestoned circles and narrow passageways. During summer’s steamy heat, take the air-conditioned trolleys from Discover Annapolis Tours.

Two prestigious academic institutions call Annapolis home. The most famous is the United States Naval Academy. Post-September 11 security is tight—you can’t get in without a picture ID if you’re over 16—but you can still access plenty of the grounds. Start at the Armel-Leftwich Visitor Center, just inside Gate 1, at the end of King George St. The center is chock full of all things Navy; it’s also where tours of the Academy Yard begin. Arrive in time to see the Noon Formation, when the men and women in white line up for lunch. If you, like me, are a sucker for men in uniform, you’ll love it. Oh, and don’t expect to spot any familiar locales from the film Annapolis (2006). All the scenes, including the ones supposedly of the Naval Academy, were shot in—get this—Philly. Go figure.

St. John’s College is a quiet, picturesque institution whose academics are structured entirely around the readings of classic texts. The surroundings mirror the curriculum—-think Ivy League, with centuries-old brick buildings, one of which once housed Maryland’s colonial governor. For a dissection of the post-Homer epic or metaphysics for the modern age, listen in on a free lecture, Friday nights at 8:15pm, at the Francis Scott Key Auditorium. Key not only penned our national anthem, he was also a student here.

Annapolis is home to myriad boat races. The America’s Cup and the worldwide Ocean Volvo Race are two of the most prestigious—but the latter won’t return to the city until May 2008. In the meantime, check out racing schedules for the Eastport Yacht Club, Annapolis Yacht Club, and the Boatyard Bar & Grill for local events throughout the year—the latter of which hosts the popular Wednesday night summer races.

What a success story! Ten years ago, you’d not be caught dead on West Street Corridor—unless you were looking to score illegal pharmaceuticals or a pay date. Today, West Street is ‘new’ Annapolis—a hotbed of fresh culinary finds, live-music venues, and upscale, indie shops that are way more interesting than anything on Main Street.

Chi-chi Astrid specializes in designer duds from abroad. Object carries tchotchkes and gag gifts, including band-aids shaped like bacon strips! Pick up hand-crafted jewelry boxes, Annapolis-inspired vitreography (paintings on glass), and pottery inspired by Maryland’s famous crustaceans at Artfx. If you’re here on a romantic weekend, find a silky new outfit to impress your sweetheart at a la mode.

Annapolis has some fabulous historic homes—all of Maryland’s signers of the Declaration of Independence had houses in the Annapolis area, and they still stand today. One of the best ways to see them is on a tour with the Historic Annapolis Foundation.

The Hammond-Harwood House is an elegant town home that is one of the most complete examples of early American architecture. Built with tobacco money in 1774, it survived the Revolution and even a short stint as a St. John’s College fraternity in the early 1900s. Look for some cool period items like a leather fire bucket and an $8 bill. Wander the meticulously kept grounds of the William Paca House and Gardens. The five-tiered garden rolls down to the fish-shaped pond, topped with a white-picket bridge across its water.

Charles Carroll (as in Carrollton) and his family significantly shaped the state of Maryland. Politicians, lawyers, and businessmen, they were a little like the Vanderbuilts during the 1700s. Carroll was also the only Catholic signer of the Declaration of Independence. Check out his personal effect at his birthplace, the Charles Carroll House.

The Chase-Lloyd House, named for lawyer Samuel Chase—another Declaration signer—is now a home for retired women. Though only the first floor is open to the public, it’s worth a quick look for the impressive Georgian and Flemish architectural flourishes. The Banneker-Douglass Museum (free!) is in a beautiful old church with rotating and permanent installations on the history of African Americans in Maryland.

Annapolis Restaurants & Taverns: Eat Cheap

Rams Head Tavern ($-$$) is one of my favorites, not necessarily for the food, but for the music lineups ranging from surfing legend Dick Dale, to finger-pickin’ master Leon Redbone, to modern rock and country groups (all shows are 21+). It’s also a brewpub and the beers are phenomenal—order the Fordham sampler. The burgers and app’s are a couple of steps up from TGI Friday’s, but there are turkey burgers and tuna-steak sammies for those watching their waistlines. A better choice than the pub grub is the Galaxy Stew, with fat hunks of crab, shrimp, and scallops; or come on a Monday for half-price lobster night. Their happy hour is one of the best around—free food 5pm to 7pm, with microbrews priced under $2.

George Washington knocked a few back at Middleton Tavern ($-$$), a popular stopover with travelers along the Virginny-Philadelphia route in the 1700s. Sample the microbrews along with a hearty lunch of Old Bay-steamed clams, or slam oyster shooters at the bar. I prefer eating on the ’splintery’ covered porch outside and giggling at the young ladies checking out the Naval Academy plebes.

I feel like I’m in London when I visit the stately Reynolds Tavern ($$-$$$). It’s a Jeckyll and Hyde type of place, with a refined atmosphere on the first floor, and a raucous attitude down below in the Sly Fox Pub. Bangers and mash and fish and chips are staples in the pub, as are steamed mussels and quesadillas. Monday is half-price wine night, but if you prefer beer, go for the Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout. Back on the first floor, Reynolds’ serves a scrumptious high tea in a room with Victorian lace and floral-patterned wallpaper. Order the Colonial High Tea for the full treatment; aside from your choice of a bazillion teas—I recommend the ‘Gun Powder green tea—there’s also a mouth-watering plate of dense scones, crust-less sandwiches and a savory mini-quiche.

From governors to grandmothers, everyone who’s spent a lot of time in Annapolis has eaten at least once at Chick and Ruth’s Delly ($-$$). Expect thick hamburgers and apple pie, amazing crab omelets, and belt-busting ‘colossal’ sandwiches, which come with about two pounds of meat! This place is as American as it gets—every morning begins with a recitation of the Pledge of Allegiance.

Joss ($$-$$$) is the top spot for sushi, and a big glass window looks onto historic Main Street, perfect for people-watching. Rolls tend toward the exotic—where else can you get steamed monkfish liver wrapped in soy paper?—and there are more than 50 varieties to choose from. Save room for dessert: the grilled bananas will knock your socks off. Tsunami ($$-$$$) comes in a close second, mostly for its modern vibe and cheaper prices, but the service is s-l-o-w. Still, the West Street location makes this a convenient spot before a concert at the Rams Head Tavern.

I’ve not yet tasted the tapas at Kyma, but word has it that the small plates are miniature works of art. Check it out and let me know what you think!

How can you not love a place that throws full-moon parties? The Boatyard Bar & Grill ($-$$$) is a fun, casual hangout, wildly popular with the local boating set—it feels more like Key West than Maryland. Food is casual, dominated by finger-popping bites like conch fritters, fried shrimp and sinful Boatyard Cheese Fries topped with pepperjack cheese and hickory smoked bacon bits. I always dig the crispy soft shell crab sandwich (though the fixin’s are a little plain—lettuce and a Kaiser roll are a little flat). The restaurant is very active in the community, hosting races, fundraisers, and parties, and takes its environmental place in the world pretty seriously as a member of 1% For the Planet.

For steamed crabs, there’s only one name in town: Cantler’s ($$-$$$). And that’s saying something in this seafood hub. It doesn’t matter when you go, the crabs are always heavy and sweet. I love the paper-covered picnic tables and getting my hands grimy with Old Bay. On any given night, you’ll find it buzzing with the happy hour crowd and crab-feast seekers. I also love the fact that their kids’ menu lists fish munchies and steamed shrimp—with no utensils required.

Despite its airy-fairy name, Yin Yankee Cafe is a trippy, dark restaurant with décor dominated by fishtanks and water-inspired accents that put you in the mood for their incredible seafood. Choose from a large sushi menu. Parents: Kids l-o-v-e the funky PB&J sushi roll. Or go for hot entrees like ginger chicken, potstickers, banana-leaf or curry-roasted fish, and an awesome ‘crabchop’; a giant crabcake topped with tangy wasabi mashed potatoes. Yum!

Annapolis Restaurants: Splurge

The food is as crisp as the white walls and wood décor at chic Metropolitan ($$$). The menu changes with the seasons, but look for perennial favorites like prosciutto-wrapped scallops and inventive dishes like foie gras BLTs, and black-truffle-and-lobster risotto. If you can, sit on the rooftop deck: the food somehow tastes better when you’ve got an open-air, third-floor view of Annapolis’s teeming streets. NB: Cocktails cost a whopping $10 (or more).

Thai-influenced Lemongrass ($$$) shares ownership and sidewalk space with neighboring Metropolitan, and exudes a similar high-fashion vibe. Specialties include the lemongrass shrimp special (jumbo shrimp served with chicken and fat lumps of crabmeat) and the crispy whole rockfish—a delicious spin on this fav local fish. Vegetarians are well respected here and even get a full page on the menu, with entrees like fried tofu in kaffir lime leaves. A comprehensive selection of curries, noodles, and rice bowls rounds out the menu. If you have a sensitive stomach, let the waiter know: most of the dishes are spicy.

Annapolis Hotels

Annapolis has no true budget hotels. Stay near State Circle for proximity to downtown and West Street. Otherwise, there are chain hotels and motels farther west, but in my opinion they’re too far from the action.

The business-class Annapolis Marriott Waterfront ($$$-$$$$) is the only waterfront hotel in town. Perched smack at the end of City Dock, the hotel’s rooms are big, with balconies fronting on the Chesapeake Bay. And unlike at many chain hotels, here they use allergen-free, environmentally friendly cleaning products and linens. Downstairs, the bay-front bar and restaurant Pusser’s serves tropical cocktails so strong, they’d make Jimmy Buffet blush.

The vibrant, royal colors of the Lowes Annapolis Hotel fit in well on happening West Street. Rooms are minimalist but striking, with yummy Bloom toiletries and flat-screen TVs in some. An onsite spa indulges with special treatments like thermal stone facials and detoxing, ginger-essence massages. If you like to dine among local politicians and powerbrokers, make a reservation at the onsite upscale, dimly lit chophouse, Breeze.

Annapolis’ newest high-end hotel, the O’Callaghan Annapolis Hotel ($$$-$$$$) sports mahogany wood furniture, crystal chandeliers, and cool marble floors imported from Europe. Leather chairs complement a gold-and-navy-blue color scheme; high-thread count sheets adorn the bed. The hotel is tucked just off West Street, the new happening center of dining and nightlife.

A night on the Schooner Woodwind ($$$$) will literally rock you to sleep. The 74ft schooner is a little hostel-like, with cramped quarters and two shared baths (hand-held showers only). But if you book a night aboard the vessel, you’ll get to party with the sunset-cruise crowd, before disembarking for dinner around 9pm. But be back before midnight, lest you find yourself unable to re-board. Claustrophobes do better in a proper hotel.

Or book a weekend shipboard with a boat-and-breakfast cruise on La Bella Vita, moored just outside Annapolis. Cabins are plush, with wooden headboards and furniture, mounted bedside lamps, and private bathrooms. The Queen Mary it ain’t, but it does make rounds of fun waterfront towns like St. Michaels, where you can spend the afternoon shopping. Between towns, hang out on the deck, noshing on crab puffs and other tasty hors d’oeuvres. Stay aboard for dinner or disembark; menus change regularly, but you can guarantee the seafood dishes are freshly caught.

Annapolis Inns and B&Bs

Details are exquisite at the opulent Annapolis Inn ($$$-$$$$), from the Austrian crystal chandeliers to the koi pond dotted with lily pads. Rooms are done in Colonial style (welcome to Annapolis), with exposed brick fireplaces, claw-foot tubs and heavy four-poster beds, but there are also contemporary high-end amenities too, notably the bathrooms’ heated marble floors and towel warmers. Of all the rooms, the Rutland Suite is my favorite, if only for its wonderful private sundeck. If you’re looking for a place to pop the question, this is it. Oh, and check out the historic Underground Railroad tunnel, which still exists in the basement. Very cool.

The circa-1870 Royal Folly Bed and Breakfast ($$$) tricks you with its casual appearance of a private home. But its unassuming, blue façade belies five stylish suites. Popular and whimsical, the Queens Chamber suite has royal purple walls, with two fireplaces in the bedroom and bath, and a double Jacuzzi and personal bidet. The remaining four suites are splashed with vibrant reds, yellows, and blues, Jacuzzi tubs, and triple-sheeted four-poster beds. If you’re traveling with your pet, you can get the entire bottom floor to yourself. Linger on Sunday morning with champagne brunch and complimentary late checkout. A garden hot tub sweetens the deal. No kids under 18.

The William Page Inn ($$$) is stunning, with cream-and-burgundy striped awnings, a wraparound porch, cheery flowerboxes, and a lush mature garden with a gurgling fountain. Despite the common area’s clutter, the rooms are sweet and simple, with white eyelet bedspreads, mirrored vanities, pastoral artwork, and retro black metal fans. The atmospheric Maureen Suite, on the top floor, has big dormer windows and skylights. Best of all, off-street parking is included—a rarity in Annapolis. The inn is right next to the Naval Academy.

Vacation Rentals

Vacation rentals can be tricky to navigate, but the payoff is huge. Whether you’re a budget traveler who can’t afford the double-whammy cost of hotels and restaurants, or a luxury traveler who wants seclusion and over-the-top grandeur, you’ll get more space and privacy for your money by booking a rental property. And you’ll have a kitchen too. Read our vacation rentals how-to guide to find our how, and where, to rent.