Beach Barbecues: One-day Getaways Near Home
No plans for Labor Day weekend? There’s still time to organize a beach barbecue—or an evening bonfire—and you won’t have to drive far to make it happen. You could head to Stinson Beach, but afternoon traffic bound for the Golden Gate Bridge will be horrendous (remember, the Bay Bridge will be closed this weekend). A better choice: the San Mateo Coast. Get here early—before 10am—to claim a grill at one of the picnic areas, or sleep late and bring your own self-contained Weber. And since I’m a former professional cook, I’ve also included tips on how to grill like the pros.
The following beaches along the San Mateo Coast are laid out in north-to-south order.
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Giant driftwood litters San Gregorio State Beach, where you’ll find about eight barbecue grills near the small parking lot overlooking the ocean. A creek spills out of the inland hills, cutting a serpentine path across the beach—kids love redirecting the watercourse and building forts out of the driftwood beside the creek. The beach doesn’t immediately reveal itself. Though you can’t tell from the parking area, this is one of the longest strips of sand around. You can walk for miles, like on the beaches on the south shore of Long Island, but with cliffs in the background, not dunes. NB: There is a private, nude, primarily gay stretch of beach north of the parking area. If you haven’t paid for access via the toll road just north of the state beach parking lot, stay below the mean high-tide line. NB: The strand north of the parking area is privately owned and inappropriate for children and families. But if you’re a gay boy, it’s fabulous.
The best thing about Pomponio State Beach is its easy access—the sand unfurls right around the parking lot. But the big draw is the eight cooking grills: If you’re looking for an easy, drive-to spot to broil burgers for the kids while watching the waves, set your briquettes afire here. Otherwise, there are more dramatic beaches further south: Keep moving.
Pescadero State Beach is especially good for watching the sun set. Several picnic tables and two charcoal grills sit perched on a sloping hill above the beach, just a short walk from the car. The beach is small enough to keep an eye on the kids, but it’s not the county’s prettiest. For grander, more-secluded spots, choose another beach further south. But if you’ve only got a short time, this is a solid choice—and best of all, the wonderful town of Pescadero is only two miles inland, meaning that you won’t have to drive far if you forgot to pack the salt.
If you love small rocky coves, a la the beaches in New England, you’ll go nuts for Bean Hollow State Beach, which has three barbecue grills. And if you brought your pooch, this is the only dog-friendly beach this side of Half Moon Bay (keep Fido on a maximum 6ft-long leash). A short trail leads from the parking area to a crescent-shaped beach, big enough to run around, but not so big that you’ll lose track of the kids. Harbor seals sometimes haul out on the rocks at the beach’s south end, belching and scratching, delighting onlookers. (Stay back 25ft from seals, lest you scare them; they haul out of the water to catch their breath. If you frighten them, they’ll jump back in the water and risk drowning.) Walk out the rocky point at low tide and peer into critter-packed tidepools—a delight for kids.
From Bean Hollow, take the short self-guided nature trail north along the bluff tops to connect with Pebble Beach, which has one lonely grill. But the hidden cove is gorgeous, with elegant sandstone formations (tafonis) and colorful pebbles of wave-polished quartz lying on the sand. However beautiful the rocks may be, leave them where they lay: it is illegal to remove pebbles from the sand. Bummer. (NB: The beach is under the administration of Bean Hollow State Beach.)
I love Gazos State Beach for its long, rolling breakers, wind-protected sand, and distant views of the stately Pigeon Point Lighthouse. Though it has no grills, it’s worth a visit, if only for the dramatic vistas. An easy wheelchair-accessible trail leads to the sand, which stretches far and wide, with rolling, wildflower-carpeted hills unfurling behind. A meandering creek meets the sea here, and it’s mellow enough for kids to sail paper boats across its surface. Look for the margins between the brown dune grass and green-hued coastal scrub—the color shift is sublime. To my mind, Gazos is the premier beach along the southern San Mateo Coast. I can’t wait to return. (NB: Gazos is under the administration of Año Nuevo State Reserve, the world’s largest breeding ground of elephant seal. If you have questions about picnicking, call 650-879-2025.)
Hate to cook, but love a beach bonfire? Bring wood to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. You won’t need a permit, but familiarize yourself with regulations regarding beach fires before setting out. Pick up a couple of boxes of wood—one is never enough, especially on a cold night—at Safeway on La Playa, right near the beach.
John’s Barbecue Tips: Cook Like the Pros
Though I wouldn’t be so bold as to label myself a chef, I did study cooking in Paris with the same chefs who trained Julia Child. To help you plan the perfect barbecue, here are my top tips for grilling meat over an open fire.
• Build a hot fire. Use more charcoal than you think you need—remember, the fire has to last till all the food has been cooked. Mound charcoal in a pyramid before lighting.
• Spread the coals only once they’ve (mostly) turned gray, and distribute them evenly to avoid hot spots.
• Set the grill rack over the fire to burn off gunk from the last use; when the grill gets hot, use a wire brush to rub it clean. Start cooking immediately.
• Bring the meat to room temperature before cooking.
• Dry meat with paper towels before grilling, especially if you’ve marinated it. Wet meat will not sear properly, and juices will be lost to the fire.
• Meat shrinks, fat doesn’t. If your steaks have an edge of fat, make vertical slices through it at one-inch intervals to prevent the steaks from curling and twisting as they cook.
• Never salt raw meat! It draws blood to the surface—exactly what you don’t want to do. Salt the cooked face only after you’ve turned the meat.
• Beef and lamb cook relatively fast (depending on how thick they are) and require a hot fire. (For details on cooking chicken, scroll down.)
• Never cover steaks or burgers while grilling. Leave the barbecue lid open all the way.
• Never press down on meat with the back of a spatula while it’s cooking! Doing so squeezes out the juices. This is true whether you’re grilling over an open fire or sautéing on the stove at home.
• If flames flare up because of dripping fat, they’ll burn the meat. Use a sprayer bottle of water to douse them,, but not so much that you extinguish the coals. Alternatively, flick water at the fire using your fingertips. If you’ve no water, shift the meat around on the grill. If all else fails, close the lid tightly for a moment to deprive the fire of oxygen.
• When is meat cooked? Once you’ve flipped steaks or burgers, monitor their surface. When blood appears, the meat has reached medium rare. After this point it cooks fast. Pay close attention.
• Never poke cooking meat with a fork or knife. Piercing meat breaks the seared crust and causes juices to drain out. Chicken is sometimes an exception (see below).
• Salt and pepper the meat again as it comes off the grill.
• Let meat rest, beneath a loose tent of foil, for a few minutes before serving. Juices retreat to the center during grilling, then redistribute to the edges during the rest period. (Do not wrap just-cooked meat tightly in foil, or heat will concentrate and cause the meat to overcook).
• If you’re serving burgers, they’re much improved when served on toasted, buttered buns. Grill them while the meat rests. To save time, use melted butter and apply it with a pastry brush.
A Note about Chicken
• Chicken on the bone takes long to cook (20 to 40 minutes) and thus has a tendency to burn. Fear not if you char the fatty skin; the meat is what’s important.
• Adjust the grill to the highest position away from the fire. If your barbecue has a lid, partially close it (but never all the way; fire needs air) to create an oven, which will help cook the chicken evenly.
• Turn the meat often; if you’re using a marinade, baste the meat during cooking, but avoid dripping it into the fire, which will cause flare-ups.
• White meat cooks faster than dark; take the breasts off the fire before the legs; cover them loosely with foil.
• You can save time by blanching chicken in stock or water prior to warming it up on the grill, but it will lose much of its flavor. (Only cheaters pre-boil meat.)
• If you’re not sure whether the legs and thighs are fully cooked, insert the tip of a knife into the middle of the meat. In a moment, juice will start running out. When it runs clear, with no trace of red blood, they’re cooked.
• Boneless breasts are another story. They cook fast—much faster than steaks. Rub them with herbs, black pepper, and olive oil prior to grilling. To determine when the breasts are done, poke the surface with your finger; the meat should spring back to the touch. Don’t wait till the breasts are firm, or they’ll be (way) overcooked. Let them rest a minute or two before serving.