San Mateo Coast Parks
07:10 PM October 12, 2007 0 comments »
There’s more to the San Mateo coast than beaches. A series of lesser-known state parks runs the coast, protecting redwood forests, beachside seal-breeding grounds, and nature preserves with zillions of birds singing in the trees. The following parks are my favorites; they’re listed north to south.
Before visiting the Pescadero Marsh Natural Preserve, I had little interest in birding. Now I’m shopping for binoculars. The marsh is home to a stunning 180 species of birds, which you can spot fluttering between the cattails. To view them, hunker down on one of the wooden observation platforms along the 2.5mi roundtrip trail around the North Marsh. The best season for birding is fall and early winter, but there’s activity year round.
On a foggy day when it’s too chilly to hike the coast, head inland to the redwood forests of Butano State Park (pronounced BOO-ta-no). The 4mi round-trip trail climbs 700ft on a loop through mostly second-growth redwoods, with spiky ferns and ghostly moss-draped fir trees in between. This is a great choice for a family walk—kids love chasing lizards along the way. The trail tops out at the Año Nuevo Lookout, a good spot to stop for lunch.
The area’s most famous park, Año Nuevo State Reserve is the world’s largest breeding ground of elephant seals, from mid-December to mid-April; docents guide nature walks along the 3mi trail to Point Año Nuevo to view the seals (book reservations well ahead). But even in summer, you’ll be treated to views of Steller Sea Lions lazing on the sand—a thrilling sight.
Crowds come to Año Nuevo in winter, which means that the trails are empty in the off-season, especially on weekdays. Shoulder-high grasses whoosh in the wind, delicate wildflowers bloom in a riot of colors, and the elegant Pigeon Point Lighthouse looms on the horizon. Because the point juts far off the coast, you’ll have awe-inspiring panoramic views. And until the end of July, you can purple your fingers picking olallieberries. I can’t think of a better hike on a sunny day than this. Arrive before 3pm to pick up the required permit.
The towering trees of Big Basin Redwoods State Park meet the ocean just north of Davenport, at Waddell Creek Beach. But unless you want to trek uphill, this isn’t the ideal trailhead; better to head inland to the park’s main gate (plan one hour’s drive). However, if you’re a strong hiker, you’ll have no problem with the 1200ft elevation gain into the Santa Cruz Mountains, along the magnificent 12mi-long Skyline to Sea Trail. You’ll hike creekside and along the way spot waterfalls and—of course—the tallest trees on the planet. I’ll say more about Big Basin when I cover the inland peninsula; stay tuned.
You can bicycle on the fire road running along Waddell Creek. Though it’s 6mi long, the route is mostly level, making it ideal for a family ride. Along the way, you’ll spot zillions of birds and come upon three small seasonal waterfalls. A bit of local lore: Native Americans used to burn the bunchgrass in this valley so they could spot the once-ubiquitous bears that otherwise hid in the grass; when the Spaniards came along, they let the grass grow back and were often picked off by hungry bears, much to the delight of the Indians. NB: The road is heavily rutted, bring fat-tire bicycles.
For total solitude, head to the new 7000-acre park above Davenport, called the Coast Dairies. The land was recently acquired by the BLM and California State Parks system, and they haven’t yet established any marked trails. But if you park in the dirt lot immediately south of town, you’ll spot a trail through the tall grass. Head up the rolling hills directly to the ridgelines above the little town. Along the way, pick wild mint leaves to brew tea at the end of the day (you can identify mint by its square stem).


