Ellen Rugel takes us on a tour of Alexandria. Edited by John A. Vlahides

Introduction

When you desperately need to get out of Dodge, but can’t find the time for a trip far away, cross the river to Old Town Alexandria and lose yourself in the past.

History is everywhere in Old Town, but it’s not preserved within the confines of a museum. Founded in 1789 on a wide expanse of the Potomac, the whole town is listed on the National Register of Historic Places—paradise for those who love to lose themselves in the old-fashioned quiet of an evening stroll.

Old Town is chockablock with good restaurants, many in historic buildings, some of them destinations in their own right. The shopping is great too—especially if you’re sick of mall fashions. Head to Washington and King streets for scores of independent boutiques, home-furnishings shops, and art galleries.

It doesn’t really matter where you go in Alexandria: Old Town’s magic lies in its impeccable preservation and timelessness. Amble the red-brick sidewalks, past row after row of 18th- and 19th-century townhouses spiffed up with colorful window boxes and lovely side gardens. Or stroll the banks of the Potomac along the Waterfront Walk, and watch the ballet of sailboats gliding by. You can see the city across the river, but turn your back and feel a world away.

See & Do

If you love art, don’t miss a chance to visit the artists’ workshops at the Torpedo Factory Art Center, a converted factory where torpedoes were manufactured during WWI. In 1976 the cavernous space was converted into art-work spaces, with 84 studios and several exhibition galleries, all open to the public. Artists work with all sorts of media—ceramics, fabric, oils and pastels, even silver and gold. Browse the art, much of it for sale, while you chat with the artists who created it.

City Hall Square is the focal point of Old Town, and it’s also the locale of many concerts and festivals. Meet locals at the year-round farmers market (Saturdays from 5am to 11am), which sets up around the fountain. Pop into the adjacent Visitors Center for a full schedule of events and a list of walking tours, including several ghost tours. The center also provides details on town’s historical venues, such as the Gadsby’s Tavern Museum, which hosted 18th-century luminaries like Thomas Jefferson and James Madison; Carlyle House, the stately mansion of city founder John Carlye; and Christ Church, where both George Washington and Robert E. Lee worshipped.

Play tourist and cruise the Potomac on a boat tour. One drizzly day when it was too damp to walk around, I had a great time viewing the sights of the river from a boat. A good choice: Dandy Restaurant Cruise Ships. Or book a trip with Potomac Riverboat Company offers to pay a visit to Mt. Vernon or view the D.C. monuments from the water; the company also offers water taxi service between Alexandria and the Georgetown waterfront—a great way to arrive in town.

To commune with the magnificent Potomac River, begin at the end of King Street, on the plaza behind the Torpedo Factory (above). The plaza hums with street performers and musicians, and serves as the launching point for several boat tours. Pick up sandwiches at Nickell’s & Sheffler (see Restaurants, below) for a riverside picnic, then plunk down in the shade to watch sailboats gliding across the glassy water.

Continue north along the Waterfront Walk through Founders Park, a gathering spot for families and Alexandria’s legions of dog lovers (crowds diminish the farther north you walk). Check out the unique sculpture garden at the Canal Center office complex, in Tide Lock Park. Imagine a huge ancient Roman statue broken into massive chunks by an earthquake a pair of giant eyes here, lips with water trickling from them there, with waterfalls in between.

Extend your stroll around the bend in the walk, and you’ll glimpse the Capitol and Washington Monument in the distance. And if you’re into plane-spotting, this is a primo locale to watch jets taking off from National Airport.

If you prefer biking to walking, hit the 18.5 mile Mt. Vernon Trail, and ride along the river on the paved route. Cyclists zip between Roosevelt Island and George Washington’s Mt. Vernon home, the trail’s endpoints. (Note: The last mile approaching Mt Vernon is a climb; pace yourself!)

When it’s time for shopping, I fortify myself for the task with coffee and carrot cake from Misha’s Coffeehouse—the anti-Starbucks—before exploring the antique shops and galleries on King St., between Patrick and West streets.

Window-shopping for antiques along King St beckons with chinoiserie, artwork, and elegant furniture. Visit Golden Rhodes for 19th century antiques, which doubles as a gilding and restoration workshop. Check out the elegant red-and-gold doorway of Sackville Galleries. I love the selection of china and accessories at French Country Antiques. My Place in Tuscany has a fabulous (and fabulously expensive) collection of colorful Italian pottery, each a work of art—Restaurant Eve uses the store’s plates as chargers. If your personal collection of fine antiques or china needs restoration or repairs, bring it to Chatrees.

Old Town has some unique craft and gift boutiques. Arts Afire specializes in sparkly art-glass home accessories and jewelry. If your looking for a present to take back home, La Muse carries ‘gifts with purpose,’ from necklaces to dog bowls. Imagine Artware sells creations by American designers, many of them handmade, as well as fun gifts and gorgeous diaphanous scarves. Artcraft specializes in handmade American crafts and funky-cool furniture by over 400 artisans.

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Alexandria Restaurants: Budget and Midrange

For a quick lunch or a takeout picnic stop at Nickell’s & Sheffler ($) for panini sandwiches. The Cajun chicken with provolone and chipotle mayo is particularly tasty, as are the vegetarian soups. Near the river, the DC-area favorite, Firehook Bakery ($), serves ready-made sandwiches, on homemade green-olive bread or ciabatta, that you can eat here or take to the river for a picnic. I crave their presidential cookie—packed with chocolate chips, coconut, and sun dried cherries, it’s delicious.

There’s always a crowd for lunch at the Austin Grill ($–$$), a local Tex-Mex chain, known for its carne asada and carnitas fajitas, marinated in orange and garlic. Yum! And all the salsas and sauces are homemade; the roasted green chile wins my vote.

Feed your sweet tooth at Kingsbury Handmade Chocolates ($) with, say, a chocolate-covered apricot or gooey-delicious truffle. Pops Old Fashion Ice Cream Co ($) makes its own frozen treats right in the back of the store, and you can watch the process through the glass windows. Kids love it! The chocolate espresso is my personal favorite.

A new option for an inexpensive meal is Eamonn’s: A Dublin Chipper ($–$$), an Irish pub whose catchy tag line is ‘Thanks be to cod.’ The specialty is fish and chips with gourmet dipping sauces, and since this is the brainchild of uber chef Cathal Armstrong, it’s created plenty of local buzz. Upstairs is the secret (read: no sign on the door) cocktail lounge, PX, done up like an elegant, vintage-1920s speakeasy. Gentlemen: jackets required.

Another of my favorites is Rustico ($), on the outskirts of Old Town in an area called Potomac Yards. The beer selection is huge, with 300 different choices. The food is excellent, ranging from wood-fired pizzas (we loved the roasted mushrooms with spinach and goat cheese) to salads, which can be ordered with a skewer of succulent lamb or chicken. The ‘mosaic menu’ offers a variety of small plates paired with a variety of beers—it’s a great way to sample different dishes when you’re dining with friends.

Directly across from Rustico and under the same management, Buzz ($) is a cafe, lounge, and bakery with stellar desserts—I nearly start drooling as soon as I walk in the door of this neighborhood hangout. Good for light, snacky meals—I recommend the scones or sausage-cheddar biscuits for breakfast, quiche for lunch, or a savory meat pie for dinner, For desert, try the always-good Gala Apple Bread Pudding or the double-chocolate cookie. This summer they’re also sponsoring a speakers’ series, a good excuse to order a second latte.

Alexandria Restaurants: Upper-mid and Top End

Al fresco dining is a major draw in Old Town. The patio at Le Gaulois Cafe ($$$), with its colorful tablecloths and tree-shaded tables, imports Provence to Virginia. For lunch, try the bibb lettuce seafood salad with fish, shrimp, and avocado; or an omelet or croque monsieur for lunch. Dinner entrees tend toward traditional French-Provencale dishes like a hearty cassoulet and an excellent rendition of bouillabaisse.

The outdoor oasis at Taverna Cretekou ($$$) provides a lovely backdrop for tasty Greek selections; the inside dining room’s whitewashed walls and paintings of Greco statuary make it feel like the Aegean is just outside the door. For lunch try the open-faced thin-sliced lamb sandwich. The dinner menu lists Greek staples like moussaka and spanakopita, complemented by specialties like broiled squid stuffed with whole shrimp, and a simple grilled whole rockfish. The whole place parties on Thursday nights when there’s live music.

Chef Cathal Armstrong has taken over the Majestic Cafe ($$$–$$$$) and has breathed new life into the American comfort-food menu. The lunch menu lists good sandwiches, but the best cooking is at dinner: go for the roasted organic chicken with pan gravy, made better with a side of house-made orecchiette pasta with garlic, pepper, and breadcrumbs. Finish with the bittersweet chocolate milkshake for grownups.

The top table in town, Restaurant Eve ($$$–$$$$) merits a special trip across the river. The European-inspired menu is solidly rooted in French technique and incorporates the best local ingredients: if it’s in season right now, it’s on the menu. The luxury-food menu served in the intimately elegant ‘tasting room’ lists dishes like foie gras and sweetbreads, but nods to current trends and classic favorites with house-made charcuterie platters and roasted halibut with summer-corn succotash. The execution is flawless, a result of the chef’s training on the French countryside and at major DC restaurants. For the full treatment, indulge in the five- or nine-course tasting menus ($95 and $125, respectively).

If you’re not up for a big night on the town, come at lunch and order the ‘lickety split’ bistro menu ($$), available 11am to 4pm; for a mere $14, choose either a cocktail and an entree or an entree and dessert—a great deal, considering the prices at dinner. We tried the excellent bacon, egg, and cheese salad of romaine, pancetta, and shaved parmesan, and topped with a poached egg. My partner had the salade du jour, made with spring greens, shaved fennel, oranges, and a topping of three large and perfectly grilled shrimp with the heads left, infusing the meat with a succulent sweetness. Save room for the orange creme brulee.

When the view is more important than the food, consider the Chart House ($$$–$$$$), a national chain that always manages to scoop up the best real estate in town. Sit on the patio overlooking the glassy river while sipping cocktails and slurping on oysters or munching on crab cakes. You may soon forget what you ate, but you won’t forget the wide-open vistas.

Alexandria Hotels

Budgeteers: You can score great weekend deals just outside Old Town at one of the multitude of chain hotels in Crystal City, near National Airport, and be within easy subway distance of Old Town. On weekends, the Dash About free shuttle runs every 15 minutes between the King Street metro to Old Town.

A Kimpton Group imprint, the cushiest hotel in Old Town proper is the red-brick, federal-style, 44-room Morrison House Hotel ($$$–$$$$). Parquet floors, brass fixtures, and dark-wood-paneled walls lend an historic look, but the building was actually constructed in 1988, which means that room amenities are entirely up to date. The understatedly elegant decor nods to Alexandria’s past, with four-poster beds and reproductions of Federal-era furniture. The location is ideal, right around the corner from the action on King St. Guests gather at the nightly wine reception in the warmth of the wood-paneled parlor for the wine reception, a welcome respite after a day of shopping. During the evening, guests congregate at the piano bar in the upscale Grille restaurant. And if you like to travel with your dog, you’ll be glad to know that the hotel is also pet friendly.

The recently renamed Crowne Plaza Old Town ($$$–$$$$) lies just a block from the river, directly across from the Mt. Vernon trail. The look is business-class generic, but rooms have recently been renovated and provide comfortable (if nothing-special) digs.

Keep and eye out for the new Hotel Monaco, right across from City Hall Square. Formerly a Holiday Inn, the hotel is undergoing a major renovation, slated for completion later this year. The Monaco is Kimpton Hotel’s flagship line. If you’re a hotel maven, this is the one to watch.

Old Town’s other hotels are comfortable, but they’re chains: you’ve stayed in these hotels a thousand times. Hampton Inn Alexandria-Old Town serves complimentary breakfast, and it’s only two blocks from the King Street metro, giving easy access to DC and the Dash About shuttle bus. Another reliable choice near the King Street metro is the Hilton Alexandria Old Town. Good for families, the Sheraton Suites has an exceptionally nice recreation area, including an indoor pool, whirlpool, and fitness center.

Vacation Rentals

Vacation rentals can be tricky to navigate, but the payoff is huge. Whether you’re a budget traveler who can’t afford the double-whammy cost of hotels and restaurants, or a luxury traveler who wants seclusion and over-the-top grandeur, you’ll get more space and privacy for your money by booking a rental property. And you’ll have a kitchen too. Read our vacation rentals how-to guide to find our how, and where, to rent.