Introduction

Lewes reminds me of a miniature Cabot Cove–well, minus know-it-all Jessica Fletcher and the murders, of course. It’s a Cape Cod-ish town, with vibrant architecture, unspoiled beaches, and a slap-you-on-the-back kinda familiarity. Everyone sports Vera Bradley bags and Lands End fleece jackets, and there’s a palpable sense of camraderie between the locals. Shop windows display handwritten notices for school bazaars, church spaghetti dinners, even Scrabble tournaments, and strangers cross the street to go out of their way to help you (as one elderly gentleman did when I was losing a battle balancing a falling ice cream cone and my heavy digital camera). Everyone knows everyone, and you’ll feel a part of their friendly club by the end of your stay. I sure did.

Lewes is tiny, and where to start depends on what you want to do–sightsee or see sun. Lewes can be broken up into two parts: the Second Street area and the beaches. You can walk Second Street, but to get to the beaches (at least Cape Henlopen), you’ll need a car or bike (if you pack light). Lewes Cycle Sports has rentals (with kid bikes and child seats).

Lewes has some impressive historical stats and was known by many names. Started as Swanendael (Valley of the Swans), it existed briefly under the unfortunate moniker of Whorekill until William Penn–of the Pennsylvania Penns–crowned it ‘Lewes,’ from an English town with ties to his family. It’s considered the ‘first town in the first state’ after 32 Dutchmen landed here in 1631 (take that, Plymouth Rock!). If only they’d placed that Dutch coat of arms somewhere safe, they wouldn’t all have ended up massacred by the Lenni Lenape tribe after a dispute over the theft of that crest. British warships bombarded it in 1812–evidence the cannonball still lodged in the brick foundation on Front Street–and WWII brought installation of a small military presence at today’s Cape Henlopen State Park. In 2006, Lewes once again made headlines as one of America’s “Dozen Distinctive Destinations” by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Good call—I couldn’t agree more.

See & Do

Lewes’ best asset lies slightly outside downtown’s borders. I got snap happy at Cape Henlopen State Park; the crown jewel of mid-Atlantic state parks, in my opinion. Not only is it beautiful, its 6,500 oceanfront acres are like an ecological amusement park, with dunes, wetlands, and forests among its diverse terrain. Like Daytona, you can drive onto designated sections of the beach for surf fishing (SUVs only; read the rules). Ample campsites (water only) benefit from shading, and paved bike paths crisscross the park, past a nature center, hiking trails, and restored WWII armaments and barracks. See the view from the top of the WWII observation area before you go. The bathhouse is pretty nasty—you might want to think twice about going in alone; hopefully they’ll be cleaned by the time you visit. A must-do: Barge the Great Sand Dune for the highest vantage point on the East Coast between Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras.

It’s easy riding a bike to the park from town: Just head toward the coast on Savannah, hang a right at Cape Henlopen Drive, and you’re there in a couple of miles. Map.

Bone up on history at the Zwaanendael Museum. The beautiful facade is a replica of the town hall in Hoorn, Netherlands. Apart from the history lesson, two cool exhibits are the photos of the 1765 construction of the Cape Henlopen lighthouse, and the booty brought ashore after a shipwreck in 1774. Note: If you’re touring out-of-season, call ahead to make sure a school group isn’t visiting when you want to. The museum is free but closed Mondays. On your way out, pick up a walking map and some insider info from the c1730 Fisher-Martin house next door–it’s also the chamber of commerce.

In town, Second Street is the main, four-block entertainment corridor, anchored by the sumptuous Buttery Restaurant (see my review, below) and the Lewes Historical Complex. Duck down alleys for cool finds.

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I love the Dreamsicle lotion and Fudgesicle soap—it comes on a stick—at The Soap Fairy. Stop by their miniscule store, or see how it’s made in their factory nearby. Dogs can imbibe from their own ‘barktini bar’ in front of the colorful P.U.P.S. pet accessory shop. A scoop of King’s Ice Cream makes a nice treat during your stroll. Down By the Bay and Wildflowers are a couple of cute hodgepodge-type stores where you can pick up pastel dinnerware, sea shell lamps, and clever beach quotes painted on wooden boards. Yeah, it’s kitch at its finest, but that’s what spending money at the beach is for, right?

On my last visit, there were a lot of changes happening. Shops relocated, the Zwaanendael Inn is changed to the ‘Hotel Rodney, and the popular Irish Eyes pub and restaurant mysteriously burned down in March 2007; it’s now an upscale restaurant called Beseme.

Second Street runs into Shipcarpenter Street and the Lewes Historical Society. Tour splendidly restored Victorian homes ($5 daily, starting mid-June) and pop by on summer Saturdays for fresh flowers and locally grown peaches and corn at the farmers market.

Into maritime history? Then you probably know a ‘lightship’ is a boat that functions a lighthouse in the water. There’s a cool one docked here called Lightship Overfalls, and it’s the last riveted lightship constructed by the US Lighthouse Service. Restoration is ongoing on this candy cane-colored ship–and if you’re handy with brooms and hammers, they’re always looking for volunteers.

Stop for a spell in the gazebo at Market Square, which opens up to several restaurants and shops, and has public bathrooms. By bathrooms, I mean hot and narrow, wooden outhouses–you’d do better ducking into the visitor center just down the street. Heading toward the drawbridge, the Inn on the Canal and Gilligans are on your left. Stop by Lewes Gourmet for beach picnic fixings.

Hop the drawbridge to Fisherman’s Wharf, and board a boat. Both afternoon and sunset cruises skim through Lewes Harbor, passing weathered lighthouses and dolphin families on their way to the ocean. Kids are welcome on all cruises (so forget about romantic solitude). Captain your own charter boat if you’re so inclined, or check out their tuna excursion ($265 per person) for something a little different. The onsite tackle shop, ‘Old Hookers,’ is there to take care of all your needs–fishing needs, that is.

Stake your place in the sun at the bay-front public beach at the end of Savannah Road. There’s free parking, but the lot fills quick.

Soak up Lewes’ colorful Victorian architecture on an 80-minute boat ride aboard the Cape May-Lewes Ferry (adults/kids 6-13 $7.50/$3.75). Don’t bother taking your car; for one thing, it’s more expensive (about $24), and second, you can grab a shuttle ($3) directly into Cape May. This area gets jammed on holiday weekend like Ellis Island during the Great Irish Potato Famine, so make reservations (especially if you’re taking your car).

Want to toast the setting sun with bubbly? Ya can’t do them both on one trip, but the ferry runs sunset wine cruises and hosts naturalists from the nearby Stone Harbor Wetlands Institute. A furry pirate navigates ‘Lighthouse Pete’s Family Cruise,’ a hit with the kiddie set.

And who knew Delaware had a vineyard? Bone up on your oenology with free tastings and tours at Nassau Valley Vineyards. You won’t find anything close to Napa level, but the state’s only winery puts on great summer concerts on its sprawling farmland. Closed Mondays.

Lewes Restaurants

I just love Cafe Azafran ($$-$$$). This tiny cafe tucked off Second Street is a powerhouse of zesty Spanish and Mediterranean flavors. Free WiFi too. Try the cafe cheese board, which includes a selection of manchego, gorgonzola, goat cheese, Brie and chunky fig chutney, or fill up on one of their signature paninis. Get a window seat and watch the dogs lap up from a water bowl out front. Awww! There’s a small children’s menu, or feed the kids with food to go, if you want a beach picnic instead. There are good selections of Spanish wines, teas and coffees, including Kelly’s Tonic Tea and organic Yerba Mate. Come back at dinner for tapas or the excellent Paella Thursdays–reservations are required for this special dish. It’s an evening hotspot, so call ahead. Note: there are two seatings on Paella night. If you take the first one, be prepared to be hurried along.

Across from Cafe Azafran, the Half Full Wine Bar and Restaurant ($$$) just busted onto the scene (literally—it opened in April 2007) and looks promising. I haven’t eaten here yet, as they were putting final touches on the triangle-shaped building, but I’ve heard it’ll feature gourmet pizzas and a healthy wine selection in a bistro-like setting. Give me your take on it if you eat here. I’m eager to hear.

Beseme in the Hotel Rodney ($$ – $$$) is the new restaurant on the scene, and the food is quite good. I went for an eclectic lunch. We tried a wonderful cold melon and ginger soup which was the perfect choice on a 95-degree day. My dining partner had a savory omelet. I felt like a traitor enjoying their sweet potato french fries with Thrasher’s in a 10-mile radius, but they were delicious.

There’s been a lot of discussion about whether the upscale Buttery ($$$$) is past its prime. It might be. But you can’t beat the sweeping, canopied porch gives me first-date butterflies when I see it all lit up at night. The $25 prix fixe menu (5pm to 6:30pm) is a cheaper way to sample their top dishes.

Eat at Striper Bites ($$-$$$) and you might learn where the best cod or mackerel fishing spot is—locals come to nosh, then head out to fish. I’m not big into sport fishing, but was glad I popped in because the food is g-o-o-d. Boy, do they do seafood right here. You can’t go wrong with the crab bisque ($7), with its fat lumps of backfin, or the caramelized sea scallops smothered in asiago cream and pesto sauce ($23). Cool ceiling-high fish tanks lord over diners like bubbling blue eyes, and a smattering of metal fish schools and horseshoe crabs dot the walls. There’s also a decent wine selection, and they’ll cork it to go. The bar gets hopping at night with the occasional acoustic guitar performance, and there’s live jazz on summer Thursdays. NB: The unisex bathrooms can get a little smelly.

If you want a true crab cake, sink your teeth into the Crab Bomb ($32) at Jerry’s Seafood ($$-$$$), which makes softball-sized cakes—a real delicacy, to my palate. Fish sandwiches dominate the menu, with a few burger and veggie selections thrown in, but my favorite is the two-hander shrimp salad platter.

Vegans rejoice! The newly opened Good For You Natural Market ($-$$) caters to veggie, gluten, wheat-free, and even diabetic lifestyles, with a healthy market and juice bar. There’s also something for omnivores–the excellent beef comes straight from the owner’s farm.

It pays to catch the early-bird special at the Lighthouse Restaurant. Come between 4:30 and 5:30 weekdays, and get a free cruise ticket for every $20 you spend (cruises depart at 7pm, depending on the captain’s mood).

The Inn at Canal Square ($$$$) is the granddaddy of accommodations, perched smack dab on Lewes Harbor. It’s feels like a big ol’ comfy lodge, with modern accents like snappy glass dining tables in the foyer, and deep, marble tubs in the bedrooms. Soothe sore tootsies with a reflexology treatment at the onsite massage studio (but please overlook the Fabio-inspired website design). It’s also family friendly – kids under 5 stay free.

Throw back a margarita at the funky Blue Water House ($$$) on the other side of the drawbridge. Nine splashy rooms summon the spirit of Key West (the ‘Key’ rooms have cool hammocks on private balconies), and they’re just a short walk from the bay front beach. Plus, you get chairs, towels, umbrellas, and even bikes at no charge. I dig their homemade granola at the humongous breakfast buffet; you can even buy some to take home. They’re pet- and kid-friendly, with wireless access and a small fitness room, but their continental-style breakfast might leave you wanting for more.

Hotel Blue ($$$-$$$$) enjoys an equally tropical feel, but smacks more of South Beach than Margaritaville. I love the boutique digs here, which are surprisingly affordable for luxe accommodations (rates remain below $300, even on summer holiday weekends). Each spacious room has a flat-screen TV, canal-front balcony, and fireplace, and there’s a rooftop pool and free WiFi access. My favorite, funkiest amenity? Glowing sinks – no kidding. Each glass sink is illuminated from below with neon blue light (of course).

Nestle into a deep, wicker rocker on the wide, people-watching porch of the John Penrose Virden House ($$$). Green and white striped awnings mark this inviting B&B, perfectly placed along Second Street. Fresh fruit and flowers in your room, and afternoon snack and cocktail hours are sweet touches. Rooms are heavy on the floral-print fabrics and wallpaper, but the old-fashionedness goes with the house. And who can argue with hot coffee delivered to your door every morning?

Whether your idea of relaxing is lazing by the pool or jumping in a kayak, the Lazy L at Willow Creek ($$$) is a peaceful, rejuvenating retreat. Five rooms share cozy living areas, walkout patios, and a soothing view of Red Mill Creek. There’s also an outdoor hot tub, a game room with pool table, and a filling homemade breakfast made from ingredients grown on property. It’s not totally isolated though; there’s WiFi and TVs for those who can’t truly unplug. Though you can’t bring kids under 10, well-behaved dogs are free to roam the grounds.

Vacation Rentals

Vacation rentals can be tricky to navigate, but the payoff is huge. Whether you’re a budget traveler who can’t afford the double-whammy cost of hotels and restaurants, or a luxury traveler who wants seclusion and over-the-top grandeur, you’ll get more space and privacy for your money by booking a rental property. And you’ll have a kitchen too. Read our vacation rentals how-to guide to find our how, and where, to rent.