Introduction

The Delaware Beaches are like a three-child household. There’s the sedate and wiser older child (Lewes), the something-for-everyone middle child (Rehoboth), and the wild younger child (Dewey).

I’ve chosen to write about the two most dominant children—Rehoboth and Lewes—simply because I find them the most exciting. Where is Bethany Beach? I left it out, not because it isn’t a pretty place—heck, I spent many summers in Bethany because my family has a place there. Of course, I’d beg them to take me to the board action in Ocean City or Rehoboth. Bethany’s boardwalk action isn’t very impressive. The boards are a tiny slice fronting the ocean, anchoring a four-block strip of arcades, fried-food restaurants, summer gear shops, and a chinzy miniature golf game.

A short drive south of Rehoboth dumps you into the party town of Dewey Beach. They like to tout their beaches as family-friendly, but unless you want your daughter ending up in a Girls Gone Wild video, take your family to the neighboring beaches.

Rehoboth Beach began humbly as an oceanside Methodist retreat in the 1800s. Today, it’s earned the nickname ‘The Nation’s Summer Capital’ for the sheer number of DC folk that flock to its beautiful shores. The name itself, Rehoboth, means ‘room for all,’ which is apropos of its visitors today, as it embraces both a family and large gay and lesbian population. Some would even argue that the latter created an influx of renovation dollars that have given the waterfront town an urban-chic vibe, which makes it tops for tourists.

There’s more to Rehoboth than the beach, although that’s a good place to start. Hugging the town are two phenomenal state parks: Delaware Seashore State Park and Cape Henlopen State Park, where you can fish, camp, and even surf some modest breaks at the Indian River inlet.

Ultimately, Rehoboth is a walkable beach resort, blessedly free of ugly, hulking hotels that shadow the sands of other summer destinations. Park the car (preferably at your B&B), swap your Manolos for Crocs, and get ready for some serious eating and drinking in this laid-back town.

See & Do

Families should start at the Rehoboth Chamber for the clean, public bathroom (no kid-changing table), and the shaded park that butts up to their parking lot. You can also pick up surf-fishing permits here (see ‘Lewes’) and in-the-know advice from enthusiastic staffers. Or perhaps you’d like to leave the driving to someone else? Check out the new Rehobus, which’ll grab you from several DC locations on a Friday and whisk you to the beach ’til Sunday afternoon, with extras like flat-screen TVs and bevvies.

Metered parking is ruthlessly enforced; bring a sack o’ quarters or make change at one of two visitor services locations on Rehoboth Ave.

The beach takes center stage here—as it should. The wide, flat stretch of sand is perfect for catching rays all afternoon. Just be careful in the water–—Rehoboth has a strong undertow, and during the height of summer, it’s not unusual to see lifeguards doing their best Baywatch impressions three or four times a day. The jellyfish are terrible in August. If you should be so unfortunate, don’t do what Joey did to Monica in Friends: Try applying a paste of baking soda and water, or pour straight vinegar (apple cider, preferably) onto the red area.

Dividing the beach from the four-block strip of shops and restaurants along Rehoboth Avenue is the creaky, mile-long boardwalk. I know I’m going against popular sentiment here, but I really can’t see what the big deal is about Rehoboth’s boardwalk, and have no idea why the Travel Channel named it one of the top 5 Boards in the country. Schlocky dime shops stocked with hermit crabs and trashy t-shirts line the boards, with a few de rigeur fried-food joints thrown in. On a good note, it gives an unobstructed Kodak-moment vantage point of the ocean and beach, and it’s precisely one-mile long, which’ll help work off that Candy Kitchen fudge.

It’s engaging enough for an afternoon break with the kids. Funland is a small amusement park with old-timey midway rides, like a carousel and spinning tea cups for the kiddies, and a Gravitron and ship-swinging Sea Dragon for the older ones. If you want some serious rides, head for Ocean City’s Boardwalk, or take the kids splashing around the cool (but small)Jungle Jim’s waterpark.

The red, white, and blue Bandstand evokes a middle-America town square, and hosts vanilla acts like the US Naval Academy jazz ensemble and local high school concert bands. Spy on the boards and get your own weather update according to the degree of sunburn on their web cam. A couple of classic rock and local indie bands dot the schedule, but what’s awesome for the family is catching a flick directly on the beach—way cool for kids.

Muscle your resolve with a lukewarm sip from the Women’s Christian Temperance Union drinking fountain, at the boardwalk-end of Rehoboth Avenue, before conquering the strip. Rehoboth Avenue is the main drag of beach activity, while Wilmington and Baltimore avenues parallel with quaint shops and restaurants.

Need a bathing suit or a pair of designer flip-flops? The South Moon Under and White House-Black Market boutiques blend harmoniously with bikini-dotted Sunsations and a variety of five-and-dime shops. Duck down narrow passages like Penny Lane (connecting Rehoboth and Wilmington aves) for surprises like paper-thin crepes at Cafe Papillion and beachy pastel frames at Olde Salt. Some of my other favorites are Lotions and Potions for yummy fig leaf & cassis candles; Browseabout Books for trashy beach novels; and Sole Kids for urban-chic toddler t-shirts.

Serious shoppers head straight for the Tanger Outlets; the jackpot of brand-name outlets like Banana Republic, J Crew, OshKosh, Coach, Nike, and Ralph Lauren, to name just a few of the 140 stores. Best part: it’s tax-free (thank you, Delaware!). They’re crowded during rainy days, and there’s an inexplicable lack of a decent food court. Tip: Check the website for coupons before you go.

Rehoboth Beach Restaurants

One taste of Grotto Pizza ($) and you’ve experienced the essence of Rehoboth Beach. This institution has been churning out thin-crust pizza pies for the masses for over 40 years—the pizza isn’t half bad considering it’s traditional Boardwalk fare. The granddaddy flagship shop sits just off the boards on Rehoboth Ave (with two more locations anchoring the north and south sections of the Boardwalk); expect snaking lines of people on summer weekends. Not a bad place to wait during evening concerts at The Bandstand across the street is a good place to wait, when there’s a concert going on.

If you want Italian with a little more substance that beach pizza, Nicola Pizza ($-$$) grabs you like a hearty grandmother and tells you you’re too skinny. The best part? Their signature ‘Nic-o-bolis’ (think ’stromboli’) actually keep that waistline in check—they’re made with fat-free pizza dough and sauce. And they taste amazing. You can even have a case of 12 shipped home for later. Eat! Eat!

Bangers and mash on the beach?! (No jokes, please, we’re among polite company here.) The Brits have invaded Rehoboth—well, their cuisine, that is. If you like your fish with chips, head for Go Fish. ($) The tiny joint serves classic Anglo fare (think mushy peas) with regional touches like flounder stuffed with crab imperial, and—in a break with English tradition—fried soft shell crabs. It’s not a pub, but I love the fact they distinguish between an American pint (16oz) and an English pint (19oz). Save room for the decadent homemade sticky toffee pudding.

Beer drinkers, meet your Nirvana. Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats ($-$$) has a quirky, delicious assortment of microbrews from its regionally owned and operated brewpub (take a tour of the official brewery just down the road); I’ve stumbled out many a time on their malty Raison d’Etre. There are dollar discounts on Lawnmower Light and Beanie Bock brews during happy hour (weekdays 3-5pm); Mondays and Fridays bring out ‘Randall, the Enamel Animal.’ Good woodfired burgers and pizzas are equally creative; I crave the Canary for One (tender chicken, caramelized onions, and roasted red peppers) year-round.

It will be interesting to see what the new and improved sushi restaurant, the Cultured Pearl ($$-$$$), brings this summer. They’re changing locations and the new restaurant sounds impressive, if you can overlook the slight strip-mall exterior. There’s also a family dining room, and kids can help feed the koi in one of several ponds. It’s not the only sushi joint at the beach, but their fat rolls and long sake make this one of the best spots around for raw fish.

Head for the newspaper-covered tables at Claws ($$-$$$) for a traditional crab feast–$29.99 all-you-can-eat specials are a steal, especially considering the price of steamed crab bushels these days. Go Thursdays–rumor has it that the jumbo crabs are delivered then.

Tops for fine dining is La La Land, ($$$) tucked off the main drag. Its whimsical purple façade continues through the interiors of the dual Victorian homes, where fairy-inspired waitstaff flit between tables and the starry decor. Great selections of California wines (Cakebread, yum!). I personally love the sweet pumpkin raviolis swimming in a spicy curry broth, but inventive meat and seafood dishes get equal billing on the menu. There’s also a small outdoor garden for alfresco dining among the bamboo. The bar heats up at night when flamboyant bartender David Engel shows off his latest hair color —among other things.

Haven’t been to Nage yet, but considering it has a sister restaurant back in DC’s Scott Circle, it probably brings in the same urban crowd at the beach. I’ve heard it’s up there with La La and the Buttery. Only downside is it’s not in town; you have to drive to Rt. 1. I’ll be reviewing it later this summer, but if anyone has the inside scoop, I’d love to hear it. Post a comment at the bottom of the page.

Cafe A Go-Go ($) gives Starbucks a run for its money. And it has a sweet backstory too. Owners Maria and Jesus came to Rehoboth Beach, of all places, as illegal immigrants who spoke no English. Working their way up through washing dishes at La La Land restaurant and taking citizenship and language classes, they eventually became US citizens and opened their own cafe. Patience paid off for them, and it also works for their current customers—my mother-in-law, in particular, who made poor Jesus repeat the difference between a mochachino and a Mexican hot chocolate three times, which he did with a genuine smile. Caffeine and ‘net addicts can feed their need with a shot of Cafe Cubano and free WiFi access. Grab a decadent, homemade sticky bun to go. NB: No credit cards.

Other Boardwalk must-eats are the filling-loosening Dolle’s saltwater taffy and their partner-in-crime, Ibach’s caramel popcorn.

A mixed gay-straight hotspot by night, the Purple Parrot Grill ($$) sports creative dishes for a quick lunch bite. They’re known for their awesome quesadillas; go for the Maryland crab variety, with thick hunks of lump meat peeking out. My favorite is the Baja fish burrito—grouper and crème fraîche wrapped with fresh veggies and a sprinkle of lettuce. Great conch fritters, meatloaf and oriental stirfry, too. But you can get nearly anything here too, including the rather unappetizing sounding ‘Parrot Poop Dip’ (a creamy black bean dip with chips), which’ll set the kids snickering throughout the day. The Purple Parrot also likes to boast they have the biggest weenie at the beach…go ahead, kids: tee hee!

Rehoboth Beach Hotels & Inns

The beloved Sea Witch B&B complex ($$$) is up for sale, but its owners say they’re still open for business. Good news for us, since these homes are among the funkiest, ode-to-Hollywood gin-joints in which you’ll ever lay your head. The Sea Witch Manor Inn & Spa is the biggest of the three (Bewitched B&B and BEDazzled B&B, the other two), encapsulating Victorian charm with its oversized rooms. But my favorite is Bewitched for its kitchy themed rooms on—shocker—the Bewitched TV show characters. I’ll take Darrin II over Darrin I any day, as long as I’m not sleeping under Endora, which (witch?) would be just a little too creepy. NB: Adults only. Call ahead for a hot-stone massage, done Jacuzzi-side in their private garden.

At Melissa’s ($$$) is like popping down to a friend’s beach house for the weekend, with rainbow chairs for the beach, and a backyard BBQ grill for lingering cocktail hour. And she ain’t too bad in the kitchen either. Kick back on the porch over drinks, or browse the shops on Rehoboth Avenue, a short stroll away. The six rooms fill up fast, so make reservations early.

I felt like I should have arrived via stagecoach at the classically Victorian Boardwalk Plaza ($$$-$$$$) hotel. It’s one of the few major oceanfront hotels in Rehoboth and definitely starting to show its age. What doesn’t get old is the pristine oceanfront view from the majority of rooms, or from the glass elevator, which is worth a ride even if you’re not a guest. Efficiencies are good for families. And there’s an indoor-outdoor heated pool (adults only in evenings; sorry, kids) and internet access. I’m going to get heat for this next one, but skip dinner at Victoria’s restaurant and instead opt for their high tea (Monday to Saturday, 3pm to 5pm).

Another nice, but pricey, oceanfront option is the Henlopen Hotel ($$$-$$$$), at the boardwalk’s north end. A plus is their recent overhaul of all rooms, which now include refrigerators, microwaves, and a private balcony. The rectangular, white block might tower over the boardwalk, but doesn’t overpower the senses like many traditional beach mega-hotels.

I’m a little torn over the Corner Cupboard ($$) because I loved its seclusion from the Rehoboth Avenue bustle when it was a restaurant. But now that it’s exclusively a B&B, it’s lost a little magic. Rooms are bold greens, blues, and whites, but decor is a little grandmotherly with crocheted throws and four-poster beds. But if you’re looking for a wooded retreat within walking distance to the beach, this is a great value. Look elsewhere if you want to catch Grey’s Anatomy on a flatscreen, as most rooms are TV-free. Get one of the patio rooms located behind the main house for extra privacy. Fido is welcome, if you want to bring him along.

Vacation Rentals

Vacation rentals can be tricky to navigate, but the payoff is huge. Whether you’re a budget traveler who can’t afford the double-whammy cost of hotels and restaurants, or a luxury traveler who wants seclusion and over-the-top grandeur, you’ll get more space and privacy for your money by booking a rental property. And you’ll have a kitchen too. Read our vacation rentals how-to guide to find our how, and where, to rent.